Customised Cosmetics

Sun Herald

Saturday August 17, 1996

By Nikki Goldstein

Personalising products is not new. Marie Antoinette was famous in France in the 17th century as the patroness of perfume. She supported most of the perfumeries in Paris and had them concoct new fragrances for her every day of the week. Another Frenchman, Charles of the Ritz, made his fortune custom-blending face powders for pampered society princesses in the 1920s. Customisation has been a small aspect of the beauty business because it's been costly and time-consuming. Recently, however, several products have emerged that can cater to the individual at affordable prices.

Aveda, the internationally successful green brand, is one company at the forefront of the charge towards personalised products. Horst Rechelbacher, the Managing Director of Aveda says: "We realise that mass-market products don't work for everyone. At Aveda we have developed a range where the individual literally designs and mixes their own products. They are able to create something that no-one else has, something that is truly right for them." Aveda's newest range is a collection of 30 essential oil blends called Key Element Aromas, which are designed to be worn as perfumes or added to skin, hair and body care products. The idea is that you smell all 30 blends until you find one that instantly attracts you. That aroma blend is then added to any product you want.

Prescriptives is another company that understands the desire for tailor-made products. Michelle Feeney, the Executive Director of Public Relations for Prescriptives Worldwide says: "Prescriptives is a very modern brand and is based on the concept that we can provide exact colour, exact skin care, exact fragrance and exact service." Prescriptives is renowned for its Custom Blending service. Clients can buy a foundation for $80 and matching powder for $85 that is precisely blended to match their skin colour. The company also offers a service called Pick Two, which involves choosing two eye shadow colours ($20 each) from a range of 35 and placing them in a refillable compact ($10).

Lancaster recently introduced a lipstick mixing system called Personal Choice. The range includes 24 Oxygen Lipsticks ($22), four lip-pencils ($20), and six Personal Choice lipsticks ($16). The Personal Choice lipsticks transform the base colour with a range of finishes including pearl, gold and matt or you can use the lip pencils to intensify the colour.

Biolage Blends is another customised system that brings the benefits of specialised treatment to the client. The regime employs a range of essential oils which are specifically formulated to treat hair and scalp conditions. Your hairdresser will devise an in-salon treatment ($25), using a personalised prescription which you use at home after the session ($19).

Faith Popcorn is an American trend analyst whose company, BrainReserve, advises big companies about how to develop new brands that fulfil the needs of future customers. Ms Popcorn has identified two key marketing trends that will shape our buying habits over the next decade. The first, which she calls "Egonomics" is a reaction against depersonalised society. Ms Popcorn believes consumers crave recognition of their individuality and in the future will seek products that are tailored to their needs and lifestyle.

The second key trend is "Icon Toppling." Popcorn explains: "A new socioquake is transforming the modern Western world and the traditional social and industrial structures are questioned and rejected." Which means that Popcorn believes if companies are to survive the 90s, many will have to rethink their marketing images and strategies.

Searching for alternatives to mainstream cosmetics, men and women who are cynical about mass-market brands are lured by the idea they can have their very own products. The companies that will prosper in the days to come are those which are brave enough to see each of us as an individual.

What's hot on the market now

* Chanel's Spring Summer 96 collection includes a range of products that can be adapted to suit your needs. The company suggests applying a coat of the new shimmering purple nail varnish Le Vernis Flourine ($37) over a coat of intense red for a sheen that looks like opulent taffeta. Chanel's newest lipstick compact ($92) contains four lipsticks which can be mixed to create different colours.

* One of the hottest trends right now is personalised perfume. Aromatherapy and essential oils provide us with ways to create our own medicinal perfumes and remedies. To make a seductive smelling floral water, put 3-4 drops each of lavender and neroli into a small bottle of distilled water and spray it lavishly all over.

* Heritage Healers is an Australian company that makes holistic beauty products. The products contain Australian wildflower essences which are said to balance the body inside and out. Sold through beauty salons, the idea is that a beauty therapist will assess your skin and general health and prescribe a remedy accordingly.